The Old Hollywood outfit formula worth stealing
When a jewel thief knows a good drip
As the world continues to swirly-swirl in a geopolitical shitstorm, one of the ways I’m personally coping is going down obsessive eBay rabbit holes.
I am a big fan of old Hollywood movies, especially Cary Grant’s. I quote Charade pretty regularly, and I like his chemistry with the entire cast of The Philadelphia Story (this scene in particular with drunk Jimmy Stewart – no notes).
The inspiration
However — and this might offend the grey suit lovers of North by Northwest — Cary Grant looked his absolute best in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 film, To Catch a Thief.
The gist of the plot: There’s been an uptick of jewel robberies along the French Riviera, and Cary Grant is immediately sus because he’s a former jewel thief. Grace Kelly is a bored playgirl who joins in on the hi-jinks, which include a car chase, some roof escapades, and a 18th century masquerade ball that involves some blackface costuming as subterfuge :(. 1
Cary Grant’s jaunty vacation style consists of outfits rivaling Grace Kelly’s (though she looked amazing as well).
My absolute favorite is his striped top and pleated high-waist trousers from the beginning of the movie. The monochrome separates, polka dot red ascot scarf, subtle-striped top, and brown loafers are relaxed perfection and ready for anything. Including being framed for jewel thievery.
Some costume trivia:
Legendary designer Edith Head worked on this movie, and did all of the design for Grace Kelly’s looks.
Apparently Cary Grant found the pullover and scarf in a local shop while filming in the French Riviera. As Classiq writes:
“It’s a look that sets him and his character apart. There’s something mysterious about that scarf, something he doesn’t want to reveal – he’s a former jewel thief trying to escape the shadow of his past. The pullover also fits the shady nature of John Robie. Costume designers usually avoid horizontal stripes, because they vibrate on-screen. And they do here, too, “but they are mesmerizing on Grant, even a little dizzying if you stare at them too long, an effect that is right in step with the character he plays: they keep you slightly off balance,” remarks Richard Torregrossa in his book [Cary Grant: A Celebration of His Style].”
The jersey pullover Cary Grant wears is not Breton, because Breton stripes are wider. According to the blog From Tailors with Love, the stripes he wears are pretty subtle and were part of French fishermen workwear “to distinguish themselves from the French naval uniform the marinière tricot rayé (striped sweater ) that would be more visible with it’s wider stripes if a sailor fell overboard.”
Apparently Cary Grant’s look was sartorial inspiration for Daniel Craig’s Benoit Blanc in the Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery movie.
The sweater/pleated trousers combo reminds me of another relaxed 1950s Old Hollywood menswear look: Gene Kelly and Donald O’Connor’s outfits in the “Moses Supposes” dance scene in Singin’ the Rain. The cropped sweaters, high-waisted pleated trousers and saddle shoes are elegant in form and function.
The formula
And while these are Hollywood menswear looks, I think it’s pretty accessible, as anyone can wear them and look great. It’s a simple formula of sweater + high-waist pleated trousers + flat shoe. Mix in scarves or stripes. Sweaters can be cropped (Singin’ in the Rain) or slightly loose (To Catch a Thief).
I’ve tried to replicate this on my own a few times, because it’s a great combination for traveling. There’s just one issue: Unlike Grant’s outfit, I’m not a fan of navy blue, so replicating this outfit in a warm palette (I’m an autumn, I’m pretty sure) has been part of my eBay coterie of search terms. To wit, here’s what I’m already working with:
I’ve experimented with the high-waist trousers and cropped sweater look for a while, and if I wanted to Cary Grant-ify it a little more, I’d probably go more monochrome like the third look (however, I do love the sixth look and I probably should wear more often).
My secondhand searches are below. My advice if you want to replicate is to know your natural waist size (to get the high-waist sizing right) as well as your preference for sweater length (for a slightly cropped look, I like mine around 20 inches if possible). Of course, a good tailor can help you with these as long as you buy slightly oversize. I also favor natural fibers — wools, cottons, linens — so I tried to follow that for the looks below!
Blues Clues
Some blue looks to fit Cary Grant’s movie look. The first one is the closest replication, while the other two just fit his French Riviera vibe.
Outfit 1:
Vintage APC sweater, size S, etsy, $85. Mimics the subtle striping of Cary Grant’s sweater.
Vintage military wool pants, size 30W, etsy, $116. The button waist and patina on these – perfection.
Cotton square scarf, etsy, $28. Quiet refinement.
GH Bass penny loafer in cognac, Madewell, $175. These are pretty gorgeous for scaling up a building.
Outfit 2:
Vintage blue on blue striped wool sweater, size M, etsy, $19. Cozy and chic.
1940s French workwear pants, size 34W, etsy, $220. Features suspender buttons. Love the pocket design.
Vintage Hermes scarf, etsy, $187. The bird print reminds me of the doves from Baz Luhrman’s Romeo + Juliet.
Outfit 3:
1990s pullover sweater, size L, eBay, $20. I love a short-sleeve sweater’s weather versatility.
1970s French striped workwear pants, size 36W, etsy, $58. Utilitarian chic, yet somehow not train conductor.
Vintage silk French scarf, etsy, $75. We love a well-made accessory that hits the theme – 100% silk, French, nautical.
Mean Reds
And here’s what I would choose for my own closet preferences, which features more reds and a warmer palette. I’d say this color palette follows more of what Brigitte Auber’s character Danielle wears in the boat scene.
Outfit 1:
St. James white/red Breton top, size 14 ( 40-inch chest, likely a modern M), eBay, $38 - perfect for any time of year tbh.
90s linen high waist shorts, size 30W, etsy, $54 - god these look comfortable.
Celine handkerchief scarf, $22.50 - as the Future song goes, “All my bitch rockin’ is vintage Celine.” When going red/white, I like to steer away from blue (re: patriotism) and going for other warm tones. The little stagecoach is fun without screaming Wells Fargo.
Everlane oxblood loafers, sz 9.5, eBay, $80. I’ve been wearing my Everlane loafers for the past decade and they’ve made it through multiple re-cobbles. I love the oxblood look of these.
Outfit 2:
St. James red/grey Breton sweater, size L/XL, etsy, $85 - the contrast is appealing.
Vintage Escada pants, size 24W, eBay, $44. I own a pair of vintage Escada pants in cream and can confirm they feel like a dream (here’s the exact pair I have). Escada pants are pretty easy to find secondhand so it’s possible to get multiple colors.
Valentino wool scarf, eBay, $75. Tie all the reds and greys together with this paisley pattern.
Outfit 3:
Vintage cashmere sweater, size 36-inch bust, etsy, $116. What a beautiful ruby red.
Vintage red high waist wool pants, size 26W, eBay, $20. 100% wool and fully lined – the dream.
French bicentennial scarf, $96. Don’t lose your head over this revolutionary print.
Earthy Browns
Finally some looks that combine the stripes of Cary Grant with the color palette of Gene Kelly.
Outfit 1:
Van Der Straete striped sweater, (marked M, but likely a modern XS/S), eBay, $35 - I don’t think the sizing of this will work for me, but this is a perfect striped sweater.
Vintage Escada wool pants, size 30W, etsy, $38.50. Beautiful color, nice drape.
Versace zodiac scarf, eBay, $99. If your Venus is in an Earth sign, you will want this scarf. Grounded colors but luxurious.
Outfit 2:
Vintage striped sweater, size men’s S/M, eBay, $54. The striping is a subtle but chic detail.
Vintage chocolate brown pants, size 31W, etsy, $68 - If I didn’t already have brown pleated pants, I’d spring for these.
Vintage brown and gold bandanna scarf, etsy, $22. Classical design - reminds me of The White Lotus’ opening credits from S2.
Outfit 3:
Abercrombie retro sweater, size mens S, eBay, $30 - the contrasts are gorgeous. Reminds me of a 1970s wood-paneled den (in a good way).
Vintage brown petite pants, size 27/28W, etsy, $28 - these are also nice if you want to go for a more fitted look.
I honestly could have spent more time on other color palettes, or even other costumes from the movie, but I’ll end here.
What movie outfits have a grip on your psyche?
1950s Hollywood was famously known for being enlightened on race /s